Feburary 2001by Rich Johnson 20/20 Flies |
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The 20/20 Flesh Fly Hook: #20 standard dry and #8 standard wet Thread: White, 6/0 Monofiliment: 4-5 inches of .008 tippet material Weight: optional, (front shank only) Tail: Bunny strip, flesh or ginger (same piece as body) Body: Chenille, shell pink; bunny strip, flesh or ginger |
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1) The basic design concept is to incorporate a #20 hook in a pattern using the tandem rigging technique I used last month on the Nine-Three. Start your thread a little behind the eye, and after six or seven wraps, thread one end of the .008 tippet material through the eye. |
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2) Lash the monofiliment down along the underside of the shank. Then tie it back up the shank, bringing the thread forward. Trim the excess mono from your tag end. This creates a very strong and direct connection between the mono and the hook. Each of the fly patterns, with the exception of the egg, shown at the end of this session use this type of link to the #20 hook. |
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3) At about 1/3 shank back from the eye tie in the bunny strip as you would for a Bunny Fly (see FOM Jan 99) using five or six tight wraps. Leave very little hide off the back of the fly. |
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4) Raise the hide up and back, bringing your thread forward of the tie in spot. Take several wraps just in front of the hide and whip finish (Yes, you'll need to use your fingers for this one.) Put a touch of cement on the thread wrappings on the underside of the shank. |
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5) Wrap a thread base on the #8 hook, not quite going all the way back to the bend. Bind down the .008 mono along the entire shank length, reverse the mono and bring the thread back to the rear. Make sure to keep your trailing hook inline. |
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6) Bring the bunny strip forward, part the hair and tie down on the hide. Leaving a little extra length will allow for shrinkage later. |
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7) Cut the hair from the hide (forward of your tie in spot) for about half the length of the shank. Tie in the chenille, and bring your thread forward, binding down the hide as you go. (This is where you would wrap lead if you wanted extra weight.) |
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8) Wrap the chenille forward and tie off with several firm wraps. Trim the excess and bring your thread forward, under the bunny strip, to just behind the eye. |
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9) Wrap the bunny strip and tie off at the front. Trim and secure with several firm wraps. Whip finish and cement. |
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10) Carefully lift the back section of your fly and cut the hook shank, just up from the bend, with a pair of wire cutters. (I leave a little of the bare shank behind the body.) |
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11) The 20/20 Flesh Fly: Although actual results may vary, my personal testimonial is at the bottom of this page. |
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12) The 20/20 Glo-bug: Better than average chance for a 20" fish. (This style of glo-bug tying will be cover in an upcoming FOM on egg patterns) |
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13) The 20/20 Woolly Bugger: Bigger fish do want bigger flies. Body is on a #6, 3XL shank. |
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14) The 20/20 Pearl Marabou Smolt (FOM Mar 98): This is the only pattern that I had to cut off the front hook before I tied the rear of the fly down. The front shank/mono is threaded into the braid before tying the materials to the back hook. |
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15) The 20/20 Royal Wulff: In honor of the man that inspired me, and so many others, to stretch the boundaries of fly fishing and tying. This is the pattern I remember being discussed by Lee Wulff. |
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16) A #20 Blue Wing Olive - Dry: Yes Virginia, you can catch big fish on little flies. |
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17) The 20/20 Flies, shown as a group to demonstrate relative size. |
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18) The "Big Guy" at TalStar Lodge. I had to land two smaller fish before this guy gave me passage into the 20/20 Club. Thank you Dave, for being a great photographer. |
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