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April 2001
by Rich Johnson
Sportsman Special
Notes: When I first became active in the Alaska Flyfishers the club was just starting to work on a book of fly patterns, a book that had success well beyond the wildest expectations of the members that worked on that first edition. Many of the patterns in that first edition were patterns that members had developed on their own, or had adapted from traditional patterns of the day. Many carried the influences of traditional East Coast streamers and Northwest steelhead patterns. The Sportsman Special is one such pattern. Although the origin of the pattern has been lost, it's name comes from the Sportsman Lodge on the bank of the Kenai just across from the Russian River. The fly was sold through the lodge into the late 1960's. I judge it's effectiveness on the fact that Norval Netsch submitted the pattern for publication in the first edition and Norval mentions that Don Skidmore carried a few in his box. Neither of these men were slouches when it came to fishing, so when they talk I listen. It's also interesting that today, some 40 years later, some of the most effective patterns for Sockeyes are slim , sparse ties. If you're tired of flipping big honkin' streamers at salmon try a Sportsman Special.
I'm listing the materials as they appear in the 1st edition of "Fly Patterns for Alaska" first and my substitute materials in parenthesis
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Hook: Mustad 9672 #6 - 1/0 (Tiemco 5263, 3Xlong)
Thread: Black (Danville 6/0)
Tail: Polar Bear dyed red (Bucktail, red)
Body: Orange floss ( Floss, dark orange)
Rib: Flat silver tinsel (Mylar tinsel, silver)
Wing: Black bear hair over which is tied red polar bear hair
(Bucktail, red over black)
Cheeks: Not specified in the original book (optional - Jungle Cock nails)
Hackle: Red (Saddle hackle, red; collared)
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1) I'm using a size 6 hook, which I would suggest for fishing the Russian River for sockeyes. A size 4 or 2 would probably work better in the Kenai River, or if you're targeting Silvers. Start your thread a little behind the eye and wrap a thread base to the rear and then forward again.
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2) Stack the tips on a small bunch of bucktail, measure for length. The tail is longer than normal, something I picked that I picked up from the photographs in both books. Tie down the tail along the top of the shank, wrapping rearwards. You need to keep the hair on top and in a tight bundle as it is being tied down. Floss bodies require that you keep the underbody as smooth as possible. Notice that I've stopped the wraps just short of the thread on the shank. I'm going to use that space to attach the tinsel in the next step. Notice
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3) Attach the mylar tinsel (size 14 for the #6, use size 12 for a #4 or #2 hook) on the backside of the shank with the silver side down. I catch the tinsel with a wrap or two back (hence why I left the space last step) and the spiral wrap forward. Keep the tinsel on the backside and flat to maintain the smooth underbody.
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4) I attach floss by folding the tip over my tying thread, holding both ends, and bringing it up under the shank. This allows for excellent control of placement and the floss is secure on the first wrap. Place an additional three wrap forward on the floss.
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5) Using a hand over, hand under technique wrap a smooth layer of floss to the rear and then forward over itself. Place the last wrap over your tie in wraps and tie off. Trim the excess. (notes: Be careful not to let the floss wrap over the tail, which will cause it tilt downward. Most floss is 4-strand; you will need to maintain the strands together and keep the floss wrapping flat with a slight
overwrap. Your fingers must be clean and smooth. Light colored floss sucks hand grime like a magnet, and any rough skin will cause fraying of the strands. I know of one local tyer that uses silk gloves when working with floss bodies.)
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6) Bring the tinsel forward in an even spiral. Tie off at the head. Notice the silver side shows, and that by attaching on the far side of the shank the tinsel appears to start on the bottom of the shank.
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7) Stack the tips on a small bundle of black bucktail, measure to be slightly shorter than the tail. Attach with several firm wraps.
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8) Stack the tips on a slightly larger bundle of red bucktail. Measure to reach the end of the tail and attach with several firm wraps.
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9) Jungle cock cheeks are an optional step. In the first edition of our pattern book the photograph is of a fly tied by Norval Netsch and does not use jungle cock. Nor is it included within the recipe. But then 20 years ago jungle cock was not as available as it is today. Since the book text mentioned jungle cock on an original pattern in Skidmore's box, the fly for the revised book was tied with cheeks. I'm including cheeks because I have jungle cock. On a working fly I probably would not include eyes due to the expense and because I don't feel that it would make that much of a difference in the pattern's ablility to catch fish.
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10) Tie in a saddle hackle by its tip at the rear of the thread; wrap forward. Trim the stem and collar the hackle back, creating a tapered head. Whip finish and lacquer.
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11) The finished fly. With or without eyes the Sportsman Special is a pattern that has earn its keep and deserves a clip or two in any salmon anglers box.
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