 |
August 2000by Rich Johnson
Stealth
Notes: This month's pattern was provided by Duffy from Mt View
Sports. The Stealth complies with the guidelines I had established
for my salmon patterns this summer. Easy to tie, inexpensive
materials, effective. This is a relatively new pattern, but had a
great season last year. The Stealth comes in two color variations; green,
which I'll show in the tying sequence, and purple, shown at the end.
Although this pattern was designed for Silver salmon, the green version in
a smaller size would most likely work for Reds.
|
 |
Hook: Mustad 3407 or 34007 or similar
Weight: optional
Thread: 6/0 fluorescent orange
Tail: Krystal Flash
Body: Cactus Chenille
Wing: Flashabou
Hackle: Saddle, webby
|
 |
1) The hook shown is a Mustad 34007 Stainless,
designed for saltwater. The 3407 is Cadmium coated
and will rust away if lost. Similar hooks would be
the Timeco 800 series; Eagle Claw 254 series;
Partridge CS52 (stainless); Dai-ichi 2456 (stainless), Dai-Riki 930 (stainless). This
pattern would probably work just as well on a standard UTE salmon hook.
|
 |
2) Using the thread, define where the body will be
by laying a base from an eye width behind the eye
to just above the hook point and back forward.
(This is a slightly shorter body length than
normal.)
|
 |
3) Tie in 12 - 18 strands of Krystal Flash (#19
Lime) on top of the shank and bind down while
wrapping your thread to the rear. Leave long for
now we'll trim it in step #6.
|
 |
4) Expose the thread core on the Cactus Chenille
and tie in. (This Cactus Chenille is medium,
chartreuse) Bring your thread forward.
|
 |
5) Wrap the chenille forward and tie off. Trim,
and add a couple of wraps and a half hitch.
(Cactus chenille ties in better if you stroke the
fibers back after each wrap, especially on the
longer fibered large.)
|
 |
6) Tie in a wing of Flashabou (dark green for this
version). At this time cut the tail and wing to the same length, slightly longer than normal.
|
 |
7) Prepare a wide, webby saddle hackle by
stripping the fluff from the base, stroking back
the fibers and cutting the tip off. Notice that
I've left fibers on the stem and trimmed them into
a small triangle. This provides plenty of bulk for
the thread to bite into when tying onto the shank.
|
 |
8) Stroking and holding the fibers back gives you
a handle to position the hackle with while tying
in. Tie in at the back and wrap your thread forward firmly.
|
 |
9) Wrap the saddle forward, one turn directly in
front of the last. Tie off and trim the excess.
(This style of hackling provides the longest
fibers to be at the front of the fly. The stem
serves as a handle and with a little practice
you'll be tying your hackle off on a clean stem.)
|
|
10) Collar the hackle, wrapping a neat head as you
go. Whip finish and trim.
|
 |
11) This is the purple version of the Stealth.
(I've also used a larger Cactus Chenille on this
fly.) |
|
|