Alaska Flyfishers
Fly of the Month
by Rich Johnson



MARCH'S FLY: SCULPIN, Woolhead/Bunny
*This pattern came from a conversation with Ed Sharpe of Wilderness Place Lodge on Lake Creek at one of our club meeting. Ed was doing a presentation and discussed how sculpins can be deadly on rainbows when fished underneath and behind schools of sockeyes, but the fly loss factor is huge due to bottom snags. Ed described to me a method of tying sculpins that was quick and easy. After a few hours at my vise later that week this is what I came up with. Although Ed said it wasn't how he tied the wool, it reached the same end. A simple and quick (read inexpensive to tie) sculpin pattern.

Hook: UTE Salmon(Loop back eye is important.)
Thread: Kevlar
Lead: Size for hook
Tail: Rabbit strip from body
Body: Rabbit strip, wrapped
Head: Ram's wool Throat: Glo-bug yarn
Wrap lead (.035) from just above the hook point to behind the eye loop. (A Daiichi #2151 is my favorite hook for this fly, it has a straight eye and a dropped rear shank. I tie this pattern on 2 & 6's.) Bind the loop eye closed and secure the lead with wraps. Bring the thread to just above the barb.
Separate the hair on a rabbit strip to create a tail the length of the hook shank. Tie down with three very tight wraps of thread. Bring the thread forward and wrap a Bunny Fly style body. Tie off just in front of the head. See the Nuclic Bunny for details on wrapping the body.
Select Ram's wool that is fairly kinky with.a taper to the tips. Comb a section of wool to clean the rats out. Practice will train you as to how much wool you will want, this is a for a size 2 hook, a big sculpin even by Alaskan standards. This piece is an excellent example of what to look for in wool.
With your thread in the middle of the eye loop back, pinch the wool on the top of the shank so that the tips reach the end of the hook.
Tie in on the top of the shank with three very tight wraps, one on top of another. (This is where the Kevlar comes in. It is very important to compress the wool as much as possible while creating the head..
Using your scissors or bodkin fold the butts of the wool back over the tie in spot leaving a loop of wool projecting over the hook eye.
Position the butts of the wool so that they will wrap around the top half of the hook shank at the tie in spot. Using a loose loop and your fingers to control the wool, tie down with three very tight wraps, one on top of another.
If you want a throat, fold a half thick piece of Glo-bug yarn over the thread and draw up under the head with a fourth wrap. (Quickly, go to step #11)
As you come over the top with your fourth wrap pull the loop of wool on top of the shank and the Glo-bug yarn you just tied in to the rear and place a few wraps in front of the head. Whip finish and cut your thread.
Insert your scissors into the loop of wool, pull forward slightly and cut. Poof! Big hair.
Turn the fly over and trim the Glo-bug yarn short. If you want to create a lighter color belly trim the rabbit from the hide from the bottom of the body.
Trim the wool on top of the head flat, leaving the wool tip tied in on steps 5 & 6.
Trim the front of the head even with the eye. (This is my personal preference).
Trim both sides of the head at an angle so as to leave some of the butts of the wool for bulk ( or to suggest pectoral fins/gill covers).
The finished fly when wetted down, looks just too sexy for it's hook.

Previous Flies
February 1999 : Popsicle
January 1999 : Nuclic Bunny
December 1998: Alaska Mary Ann
November 1998: Niukluk Smolt
October 1998: Sea Flea
September 1998: Frank's Fly
August 1998: Sparkle Shrimp
July 1998: Flashfly
June 1998: Comet
May 1998: Everglow
April 1998: Battle Creek Special
March 1998: Pearl Marabou Smolt
February 1998: Crystal Egg Wooly Bugger
January 1998 : Tangle Lakes Teaser
December 1997: Bead-Head Pheasant Tail Soft Hackle

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