Alaska Flyfishers
Fly of the Month

December

by Rich Johnson

Sockeye Fry

This is a variation of the Thunder Creek series of flies developed and popularized by Keith Fulsher. The original version of this pattern is shown on page 19 of the Fly Patterns of Alaska by the Alaska Flyfishers. Designed to imitate a red salmon smolt that migrates down river early in the spring, this fly fishes best when dressed sparse and moves at the same speed as the current. This pattern also serves well in our lakes as a stickleback imitation.

Hook: #10 -12 Streamer, 3 to 6XL, ring eye is preferred
Thread: White 6/0 for tying; Red 6/0 for gills
Body: Flat tinsel, silver or pearlescent
Wing: White bucktail on bottom; Brown bucktail on
top
Eyes: Painted (or self-stick) yellow with black
pupil
Head: Coated with epoxy or nail polish

 


1) This shows the most popular styles of hooks that can be used for this pattern. From the top to the bottom: Mustad #36620 size 10, the hook called for in Fly Patterns of Alaska); Partridge CS5 Thunder Creek hook size 8; Tiemco 9394 size 10, this nickel plated hook is often seen on this type of pattern; TMC 5263 size 10, a 3XL streamer hook.

2) When using a (non-nickel) hook, attach your tinsel (silver side down) where the gills will be at the back of the head.
3) After wrapping back to the bend and then forward, tie off, trim excess, and coat with clear nail polish or head cement. Allow to dry before continuing.
4) Or… Start with a nickel plated hook and attach your thread behind the eye, wrapping rearward to a spot you want the gills to be. Approximately ¼ shank length on my fly.
5) Cut a sparse amount of white bucktail, stack the tips and measure to be slightly longer than the entire hook
6) Tie the bundle on the bottom of the hook, with the going forward over the eye of the hook. Make sure to keep the bundle centered on the bottom of the shank and trim the butt ends straight.
7) Repeat the last two steps with your natural brown bucktail, keeping this bundle centered on the top of the shank. Place a small whip finish near the eye and trim your thread. (This is one of the patterns that shows the need for learning the whip finish with your fingers is worthwhile.)
8) Attach the red thread at the back of the head area. Keep your wraps tight and few
9) Fold back the brown bucktail and secure it by wrapping back over the few red wraps at the back of the head.
10) Repeat the process with the white bucktail on the bottom. Whip finish and trim the thread
11) Coat the entire head with nail polish or epoxy. Allow to dry.
12) Apply (or paint) your eyes. Coat the entire head again and allow to dry. ( If you are not putting eyes on your patterns, one coat of polish is usually enough to protect it from teeth.)
13) A variation of this fly is called Dave’s Fry Fly and can be found on page 12 of the Fly Patterns of Alaska. Simply add a matched pair of thin grizzly hackles before folding the hair back as shown in this photograph. This fly is often tied in larger (#4-8) sizes.

Previous Flies
November 1999: Not available
October 1999: Pin Head Muddler
September 1999: Signal Light
August 1999: Pink Pollywog
July 1999 : Leonard Shrimp
June 1999 : Delong Lake Special (parachute)
May 1999 : Beady-eye Nymph
April 1999 : General Practitioner
March 1999 : Sculpin (woolhead bunny)
February 1999 : Popsicle
January 1999 : Nuclic Bunny
December 1998: Alaska Mary Ann
November 1998: Niukluk Smolt
October 1998: Sea Flea
September 1998: Frank's Fly
August 1998: Sparkle Shrimp
July 1998: Flashfly
June 1998: Comet
May 1998: Everglow
April 1998: Battle Creek Special
March 1998: Pearl Marabou Smolt
February 1998: Crystal Egg Wooly Bugger
January 1998 : Tangle Lakes Teaser
December 1997: Bead-Head Pheasant Tail Soft Hackle


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Photos and text by Rich Johnson, used by permission.
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